Puente.
Bridge (or long weekend).
Last weekend was 'puente', a 4 day weekend from Friday to Monday. After all the energy (and euros) thrown at my Barca birthday trip, I stayed local for the fiesta.
I finally had a proper daylight peep at Oviedo (Capital of the region) with the help of assistant who lives there. I met Woody Allen, Jesus and the biggest Nativity I've ever seen. Woody has his own statue there, including a quote in which he describes the city as 'una cuneta de hadas' a fairy-tale; his glasses have to be replaced every year or so as people touch then and they break. Some scenes from Vicky Christina Barcelona are filmed there, including those in the hotel. Meanwhile, Jesus is perched on Monte Naranco, overlooking the city. Along the steep route are 2 UNESCO certified churches. The Belén (nativity) is a serious business here. Serious, as in it's a girl's name. Serious, as in there are competitions. Serious, as in the one in Oviedo's Plaza Mayor has life size figures in a stable AND a 3D panoramic view of Bethlehem stretching across an estimated 9m with running water and sound effects.
I took a trip to Ribadesella, 2 hours of winding roads and coastal views to a coastal pueblo stretched across an estuary. Along the promenade the town has a series of wonderful tile murals depicting its history, ranging from 'prehistoria' to 'modernidad'. I walked up the cliff to the viewing point next to an old chapel. There are caves with cave paintings and a museum here but he caves are close until Easter, so I will be returning. They also have a walking route along the coast where dinosaur footprints can be spotted. The river is the site of an annual Eatser regatta, the names of the winning teams are etched on a stone tablet on the riverside next to a sculpture of 2 men in a kayak; there were several rowers out and about on the day too. The beach of Atalaya, hidden away between cliffs was lovely, but the highlight in the casco viejo was the Iglesia de Santa María Magdalena. The church contains the most stunning murals I've seen in a while.
When traveling to Ribadesella there was one coastal view that rendered me gaping, nose against the window. Lastres is another coastal pueblo, similar to Cudillero in that they're both build leading down a hill to a port. Only this was steeper (and there was less rain). I stopped off on the way back for 2 hours and trekked my way to the viewing point:
After a day of rest on Sunday, I caught the 8:15am bus to Llanes, another seaside town. I'm only sorry I couldn't spend more time there as it was lovely. There were medieval castle remnants and a lovely old town, throughout which traditional loud speakers trilled Christmas songs (while wearing my sunglasses, this was a surreal experience). The Paseo de San Pedro is a strip of green along the top of a cliff that snakes round the edge of the town before entering a wide Dartmoor like plain to the mountains in the distance; it is also very beautiful. Llanes is home to Los Cubos de Memoria by the Brazilian artist and sculptor Agustín Ibarrola along the pier. They are giant cubes of rock, placed like breakwaters around the pier and painted with patterns and images, some of which are supposed to represent events in Llanes' history.
A rather enjoyable penultimate weekend staycation.
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