Monday, 28 October 2013

¡País Vasco!


¡País Vasco! 

Basque Country! 
Spain is one of the most diverse European countries, with 17 Comunidades Autónomas speaking 4 different languages (Castellano, Basque, Gallician and Catalan, not to mention regional dialects) spanning mountains, beaches, green forests in the North and arid plains in the South, encompassing a multitude of cultures and traditions. There's a lot to be proud of here. 
The Basques are particularly proud of their language and culture. And rightly so, they are maintaining Europe's only Pre-Indo-European language containing 11 grammatical cases, which even survived Franco's ban upon its use. They also have their own form of tapas called pintxos (things on bread on a cocktail stick).
I was lucky enough to spend a hectic weekend in the capital of Bilbao experiencing all this. The 5 hour bus ride each way was made bearable, not only by vintage Pink Panther and Tom & Jerry episodes, by the beautiful views of the Northern coastline. We stayed in the casco viejo, the old town containing the original 7 streets and began our whistle-stop tour, including a day in San Sebatian, which I will now reduce to some few words. 

Puppy and spider on a ship: The Guggenheim Museum is a fantastic feat of architecture with waves of shimmery metal encirling the shell of the building; the outside is almost better than the art exhibited within. Next to the river, it looks like a magical ship docked. Outside are ´Maman´, a giant spider sculpture by Louise Bourgeois, and ´Puppy´a giant terrier made of flowers by Jeff Koons, which was so popular it became a pernmenant exhibition. It was being groomed when we arrived, men arranging more pansies on its coat.  
Wind: We ventured up the funicular to the highest point overlooking Bilbao for awesome views as the city itself is in a kind of bowl, surrounded by green mountains. No one´s hair had a good time up there.  
Bridge: We went to the end of the metro line and gaped at the puente colgante, the hanging bridge, a UNSECO World Heratige Site built in 1893 that is still ferrying people across the river today! 
Flask: We were told of the Fiesta de San Fausto in one of the barrios called Basauri and were recomened to buy a porrón in order to get free wine. Once arrived, amid hordes of people in tradtion dress with colours from their respective villages or areas (think bells on high socks, tartan and boinas, hats that look like berets) we found a porrón. It is a giant chemistry flask shaped glass, with a horn on the side out of which you pour (from a slight height) wine into your mouth. It is more difficult than it looks. The wine splatters on the metro stairs on the Saturday morning after confirmed this. Among the festivities, including free refills from bars inside garages, there was a Lady Gaga vs Michael Jackson concert. Probally the best show I´ve ever seen.
Tortoise: San Sebastian is considered to be one of the most beautiful cities in Spain, this helped by 2 sandy beaches and the island of Santa Clara, shaped like a tortoise. 
Jesus: One of the hills that forms the cove in San Sebastian has Jesus on top of it. I have been mere metres from Jesus.  
Icecream: I had the best icecream I´ve ever eaten and it saddens me that it´s 5 hours away.  
Weddings: There were at least 3 weddings occuring when we visited, including Jon and Raquel´s that had a cutout of a a cartoon bride and groom to stick your head though.
Boar: El Museo Vasco is home to the Mikeldi Idol, a boar statue carved in the Iron Age, which has become a symbol of the city. 

Not bad for 72 hours.

 

 



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