Monday, 28 October 2013

Cositas.


Cositas. 

Little things. 
I peep expectantly in the mailbox for international post. I´m buying things because I´m ´on holiday´ (I´m not on anything, merely in denial). I no longer recognise what language people are speaking in. I like seeing dogs everywhere, it brightens my mood. Fresh bread is cheap. There is no fresh milk. Card shops do not exist. I need to explore more. I now requiere twice as much sleep. Chatting is a potential minefield of awkward pausing and forgotten vocab. I had Smöoy and it changed my life. I´m almost looking forward to winter coats and umbrellas. 
Ay, mi vida ¿Qué es?

¡País Vasco!


¡País Vasco! 

Basque Country! 
Spain is one of the most diverse European countries, with 17 Comunidades Autónomas speaking 4 different languages (Castellano, Basque, Gallician and Catalan, not to mention regional dialects) spanning mountains, beaches, green forests in the North and arid plains in the South, encompassing a multitude of cultures and traditions. There's a lot to be proud of here. 
The Basques are particularly proud of their language and culture. And rightly so, they are maintaining Europe's only Pre-Indo-European language containing 11 grammatical cases, which even survived Franco's ban upon its use. They also have their own form of tapas called pintxos (things on bread on a cocktail stick).
I was lucky enough to spend a hectic weekend in the capital of Bilbao experiencing all this. The 5 hour bus ride each way was made bearable, not only by vintage Pink Panther and Tom & Jerry episodes, by the beautiful views of the Northern coastline. We stayed in the casco viejo, the old town containing the original 7 streets and began our whistle-stop tour, including a day in San Sebatian, which I will now reduce to some few words. 

Puppy and spider on a ship: The Guggenheim Museum is a fantastic feat of architecture with waves of shimmery metal encirling the shell of the building; the outside is almost better than the art exhibited within. Next to the river, it looks like a magical ship docked. Outside are ´Maman´, a giant spider sculpture by Louise Bourgeois, and ´Puppy´a giant terrier made of flowers by Jeff Koons, which was so popular it became a pernmenant exhibition. It was being groomed when we arrived, men arranging more pansies on its coat.  
Wind: We ventured up the funicular to the highest point overlooking Bilbao for awesome views as the city itself is in a kind of bowl, surrounded by green mountains. No one´s hair had a good time up there.  
Bridge: We went to the end of the metro line and gaped at the puente colgante, the hanging bridge, a UNSECO World Heratige Site built in 1893 that is still ferrying people across the river today! 
Flask: We were told of the Fiesta de San Fausto in one of the barrios called Basauri and were recomened to buy a porrón in order to get free wine. Once arrived, amid hordes of people in tradtion dress with colours from their respective villages or areas (think bells on high socks, tartan and boinas, hats that look like berets) we found a porrón. It is a giant chemistry flask shaped glass, with a horn on the side out of which you pour (from a slight height) wine into your mouth. It is more difficult than it looks. The wine splatters on the metro stairs on the Saturday morning after confirmed this. Among the festivities, including free refills from bars inside garages, there was a Lady Gaga vs Michael Jackson concert. Probally the best show I´ve ever seen.
Tortoise: San Sebastian is considered to be one of the most beautiful cities in Spain, this helped by 2 sandy beaches and the island of Santa Clara, shaped like a tortoise. 
Jesus: One of the hills that forms the cove in San Sebastian has Jesus on top of it. I have been mere metres from Jesus.  
Icecream: I had the best icecream I´ve ever eaten and it saddens me that it´s 5 hours away.  
Weddings: There were at least 3 weddings occuring when we visited, including Jon and Raquel´s that had a cutout of a a cartoon bride and groom to stick your head though.
Boar: El Museo Vasco is home to the Mikeldi Idol, a boar statue carved in the Iron Age, which has become a symbol of the city. 

Not bad for 72 hours.

 

 



Thursday, 24 October 2013

Aprendizaje.


Aprendizaje.

Learning. 
I've learned lots of things this week (don't know if the children have...)
1) My flat has no smoke alarm
1a) One of my flatmates smokes 
1b) Our block doesn't have a smoke alarm 

2) Chupa Chups (the lollypops) were invented in Asturias. Ernic Bernat may have been from Catalunya and Dalí  may have designed the logo, but the inspiration clearly came from my region. 

3) My carved Halloween pumpkin is more popular than I am (not that I want children to poke my eye sockets, remove the top of my head and eat bits of me)


Monday, 14 October 2013

¡Loco!


¡Loco!

Crazy!
After my previous failed attempt to salir por la noche, I have now redeemed myself.
AND IT WAS AMAZING! 
Asturias is famous for it's cider production, so naturally we were inclined to attend the happenings of Gijón's festival de sidra. This obviously involved a evening jaunt on the sidrobus. Yes, a double decker ciderbus. West country, eat your heart out. 

There were different stops around  the city and each bus took you to a different set of siderias (cider taverns), each one serving an individual type of tapas and a brand of sidra. While waiting in the queue, 2 of our girls began talking to some guys and well, so you're the organizers of this event, wow, but wait, you mean we need to go to a sidrería first to get those 
green bandanna things and a map and then we can get the bus? Oh, so as we're with you he'll let all all 13 of us on? Great, thanks! Within 10 minutes we were fully equipped for the night ahead with  maps, adorned with green scarves and with 3 dad-age admirers in tow. 

We arrived at the first stop, went straight to the bar where we spent the first (and pretty much only) euro each of the night on 3 bottles. I should explain that here cider is sold in 70cl bottles for around 2,50 euros with a strength of around 6/6.5%. These Asturians mean business. Asturian cider also is not fizzy, so to create bubbles it is poured from a height, above the head into a specific shape of glass. Therefore, when you are being served, you are constantly being served. The bartender will only pour around 2/3 inches into the cup before passing it around, poring the next and refilling the first. All very busy and skillful. And drunk. The tapas we devoured was cod, spinach and chickpea soup while the bottles just kept on appearing. After spilling cider on me, the table, everywhere, a man came over with a large blue paper sheet and laid it on the table; taking this as our cue to leave and spare the furniture, we were told to sit back down. Behold a giant plate plate of battered squid pods and tentacles appeared, followed by calamari rings. With mice made out of lemons! Just when we had annihilated the food and screeched excitedly over the mice, an olive palm tree appeared. 
NIGHT MADE. 

We proceeded on to the next, after the organizers had taken several photos of us being excited and generally sidra-tipsy (prompting the debate if one of us was expected to sleep with them for all this generosity). The next stop involved the local traditional dish of fababda (bean soup with chorizo and other meats) and pork ribs. The barman was also kind enough to put holes in the corks to make us cork ties for our scarves. We looked like boy-scouts gone AWOL. The 62,50 euro tab was picked up by the organizers. Who then paid for taxis to take us to a bar. And our drinks at aforementioned bar. By this point at 1am one person had been taken home and another had left to then be sick in a bath. We poorly karaoked along to the songs before abandoning our benefactors to go and dance. 

Spanish clubs, here at least, are easy affairs: free entry, a range of people from older women down to students where everyone is socially accepted, and no ID hassle or queuing. I am dubious of the music quality but have no basis of taste upon to judge whatsoever, while quickly developing a taste for euro-pop.

After leaving one place, a guy comes out and starts having a go at one of our (now depleted) group about taking his girlfriend's jacket. Suddenly there are 2 small police cars and she's handed her ID over, while obviously having no jacket of her own, let alone his girlfriends (who is no where to be seen). Spain may be different but there's always THAT one person on a night out. 

We were briefly reunited with our sugar daddies outside a bar who offered us tequila shots, we declined and danced some more next door. Left at 4, got to bed at 5am after carefully drinking 700ml out of a measuring jug to be sure of avoiding the apparently 'worst' hangover that sidra can produce.

Going out has never felt like so much of an achievement, a marathon finished. 

¡Noche loca! 
 




Thursday, 10 October 2013

Falso.


Falso.

False. 
Something (like the only official Spanish identification item you finally own, your precious and fought for NIE card) is false when it says you were born in 2009.

I am now younger than the than the kids I teach.

Tuesday, 8 October 2013

Noche.


Noche.

Night. 
Leeds had it's annual (and may I add fantastically family/student/suitable for all ages fun and cultural) Light Night on Friday 4th October. Not to be outdone, Oviedo held it's annual Noche Blanca on the 5th; entailing another last minute look-up online and a quick scoot to the bus station.  
Both nights have a similar premise; late opening hours (although the Spaniards win hands down on this, some events began at 10 and were 'toda la noche') and a range of cultural activities and events across the city centre. 

This time armed with a map, if not daylight, I managed to semi-accidentally stumble upon el Museo de Bellas Artes and joined the queue for a Jacobo de Miguel's 'UNO' improvised piano set, he's a well-known Spanish Jazz musician apparently. We were let in after being given newspaper size guides to the night with an hour to see the gallery before the concert began at 11. They had a Miró and a Dalí!  







   

Dalí. 'Metamorfosis de Ángeles en Mariposa'






Miró, 'La Grande Escaliaré' 










 The set was pleasant and the place was packed. After, crowds were following people holding masses of glowing globos (balloons); there's something magic about illuminated balloons, something entrancing. We all trailed after them to La Plaza de la Catedral where we stretched and elbowed our way to receive one. Then at 12, balloons filled the sky with a new constellation. It was beautiful. The event was 'Lightdrops', to illuminate the night sky.
 
I was by then, like any child to a new toy, too attached to my balloon so I was tied it to my rucksack. I popped into a Sidreria feeling it was about time to try the sidra here (Asturias is very famous for it's cider and as it's not fizzy they pour it from above their heads into a glass held at the waist to make bubbles, it's all very skillful and impressive). It's strong, cheap stuff at 2,50 e per 70cl bottle at 6.5%. I had to ask to take the majority of my bottle home... 
I saw this big installation enroute back to the bus station, while purchasing a cream and chocolate waffle.

I got a few strange looks waffle in hand, bottle under-arm and globo bobbing along behind me. I had to wait 40 minutes at the bus station for the supposed 1 am bus. However, there were 2 teenagers sparring and one kicked the other in the face, making him spit red blobs in various locations by bay number 3. Pleasant. I knew then (even before I collapsed into bed at 3) that:




Monday, 7 October 2013

Triste.


Triste.

Sad.
Recently saw a woman feeding her obese dog a bun. The dog looked like it had already swallowed a barrel. I felt sad and angry. 

Thankfully there are few obese dogs here in Gijón but there are A LOT of dogs here. Everywhere. I'm guessing there's a ratio in the vicinity of 1 dog per every 5 people. I've seen huskys, a great dane, a Bernese mountain dog, westies, 2 pugs, French bulldogs and a shar pei.
If I take anything from this year abroad it will be a new found appreciation for sausage dogs.

Friday, 4 October 2013

Playa.


Playa

Beach. 
I've finally been! After being here for 2.5 weeks and now living 10 minutes away I have fulfilled a key rubric, ticked a box, etc. I was supposed to be meeting a group of other language assistants but when I arrived at the taverna, there was no one there. So I went for a midnight, barefoot stroll along Playa de San Lorenzo. The tide was out very far, muy tranquilo, the many lights along the promenade reflected in the water pools. Having dipped my toes in the Cantabrian Sea, I can safely say it was freezing. 
But a lovely way to end a hectic day. The only problem now being my sand infested shoes.

Thursday, 3 October 2013

¿Preguntas?


¿Preguntas?

Questions? 
A brief selections of questions asked of me by my Primary level classes: 

Do you have a favorite colour? (I have decided on orange) 

What's your favorite food? (Difficult one, chocolate...) 

Do you like milk? (Yes. I eat cereal.)

Do you like Nicki Minaj? (Yes, these kids got radar) 

Do you like Miley Cyrus? (Treading on dangerous ground there, they also didn't specify if her VMA performance should be taken into account)  

How old is your Dad? (errrrrrrm, 50???)

What's your favorite car? (I said Skoda as Mum used to have one, hope they don't think any less of me)  

Have you got any pets? (Larry got a lot of 'aaahhhhhhh's) 

What's your uncle called? (???? Jonathon......)  

What's your favorite animal? (Leopardo, obvs.)